«Breaking News» Review of Hotel Barriere Les Neiges in Kate and Wills' favourite ski resort - Courchevel 1850

When the five-star Hotel Barriere Les Neiges opened in Courchevel 1850 in December 2016, there were already 16 five-star hotels, and three others with the ultra-prestigious 'palace' rating, awarded by the French government for enhancing the reputation of France globally.

So the competition in this resort - a favourite of Kate and Wills among other famous sorts - was icily fierce.

But something tells me that Les Neiges ('The Snow'), will not just survive, but thrive. Well, not something, several things.

Ted's bedroom for three nights is this deluxe suite, which is 90 square metres of plush - with riveting mountain views

The room is furnished with a huge L-shaped sofa, a fireplace, dining area and, out of shot, a wonderful mini-bar with a cow-hide finish containing a bottle of Cognac Remy Martin Louis XIII, at 290 euros for just five centilitres

The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge with their children, Princess Charlotte and Princess George, during a short private break skiing in Courchevel in 2016

The 42 chalet-chic bedrooms and suites, for starters, are jaw-dropping – smothered in cosy woods, luxurious furniture and many offering riveting mountain views.

We're in a 'deluxe suite' for three nights, which comprises a king-sized bed, living room with a huge L-shape sofa, seven or eight wardrobes (I tried counting several times and gave up), two loos (one features a Japanese toilet with a heated seat), a very large bathroom with his 'n' hers marble sinks and a dining table in an alcove.

Ninety square metres of plush that comes with a butler, too.

And as with much of the hotel, the details pile on the delight.

When the five-star Hotel Barriere Les Neiges opened in Courchevel 1850 in December 2016, there were already 16 five-star hotels, and three others with the ultra-prestigious 'palace' rating, awarded by the French government for enhancing the reputation of France globally

The mini-bar, for instance, is an eye-catching mini-wardrobe-sized affair with a cow-hide-style finish – a theme of the hotel. It contains the usual fare – peanuts, cans of Coca-Cola and so on – and one or two items that underscore the buying power of the hotel's guests, such as a bottle of Cognac Remy Martin Louis XIII, at 290 euros for just five centilitres.

Then there's the groovy chair by the bed lined with faux fur and the orchid by the bath tub carefully illuminated by a little spotlight.

And the lighting in each area can be customised with ease by switches on the wall or an iPad.

The view, meanwhile, is scintillating – straight up to the resort's loftiest peaks.

The hotel's facilities will also appeal to the 1850 jet-setters.

There are two restaurant options – a version of the Barriere group's Fouquet's Paris restaurant, where Nicolas Sarkozy celebrated his 2007 election win, and Bfire, which is overseen by top chef Mauro Colagreco, who runs 2017's 4th best restaurant of the year, Le Mirazur in Menton, on the French Riviera.

There are two restaurant options, including a version, pictured, of the Barriere group's Fouquet's Paris restaurant, where Nicolas Sarkozy celebrated his 2007 election win

Restaurant Bfire, pictured, is overseen by top chef Mauro Colagreco, who runs 2017's 4th best restaurant of the year, Le Mirazur in Menton, on the French Riviera

Ted has a superb, artfully presented starter of 'leeks cooked over the embers, fried eggs, hazelnuts, San Daniele ham and black truffle' in Bfire, left. On the right - the details continue to delight, with a transparent straw-filled cushion

We dine in Bfire, which has a menu that reflects Colagreco's Argentinian background and dishes cooked over a wood fire for a rustic finish.

I have a superb, artfully presented starter of 'leeks cooked over the embers, fried eggs, hazelnuts, San Daniele ham and black truffle' and we share cote de boeuf for two, which is wonderfully succulent but enough for four.

It quickly defeats us, so we loosen our belts, prod the transparent straw-filled cushions on the banquette (the delightful details keep coming) and sip fine Savoie wine from beautifully delicate glassware.

We'll drink to that: The bar, pictured, is an all-time great, with its vivid red velvet sofas and fire-side seating

The bar offers a very swish apres environment - note the complete lack of Jägerbombs and trays of lager...

WHY COURCHEVEL IS SO SPECIAL 

Eighteen months. That's the age from which children can start learning to ski at the ESF French Ski School 1850, thanks to specially trained teams and adapted equipment. And if your toddler doesn't enjoy it – you get your money back.

There are 12 languages spoken by 1,000 instructors in Courchevel's ski schools, including Russian, Chinese and Portuguese.

The resort boasts eight Michelin-starred restaurants, included the three-Michelin star Le 1947 at Hotel Cheval Blanc.

There are 46 hotels in Courchevel, including three with a 'palace' rating, 17 with five stars, 12 with four stars and 11 with three.

Courchevel is part of the Les 3 Vallees ski area – the biggest in the world - with 600km (372 miles) of runs (including 55 green runs, 132 blue, 107 red and 35 black) and 162 ski lifts. 

Breakfast is served in Le Fouquet's and I have to say it's one of the most gourmet spreads I've ever experienced.

The way the honey is served sums up the commitment to fine early morning fodder in one fell swoop.

A large block of the stuff sits in a metal frame and slowly drips through a funnel onto a bowl for guests to plunder.

Bottles of Veuve Clicquot champagne, huge legs of ham and fine cheese are also on offer. Plus world-class croissants.

The bar, meanwhile, is an all-time great, with its vivid red velvet sofas and fire-side seating.

Adding further to the tempting mix is a rather splendid spa – my girlfriend experiences a 'heavenly' massage there - with a beautiful indoor pool, a wonderfully colourful kids' club room to keep toddlers and teens entertained and a pretty sizeable cinema.

Sweet! The way the honey at Les Neiges is served sums up the commitment to fine early morning fodder in one fell swoop. A large block of the stuff sits in a metal frame, pictured, and slowly drips through a funnel onto a bowl for guests to plunder

No self-respecting five-star hotel in Courchevel would omit a spa - and Les Neiges' is rather splendid

The spa area has various pool-size options. The hotel claims that here you will 'lose all track of time in an enchanted environment'

They've thought of everything: The hotel has a fairly sizeable plush private cinema

Petit VIPs: Children will have a great time in the kids' club, which is festooned with colourful play areas and toys

WHY THE TRAIN IS THE BEST WAY TO REACH THE ALPS 

I've now travelled to the French Alps four times by train, and I think it's one of the most exciting and magical ways to arrive.

Rather than hang around an airport terminal then sit on a coach for a few hours at the other end, travelling by train from London means stretching out on a Eurostar, perhaps stopping for lunch in Paris en route to Gare de Lyon, then hopping on board a TGV to experience a quite mesmerising entrance to the mountains.

As the train hurtles south the countryside becomes lumpier and lumpier, then the majestic Alps rises up on the horizon and the train slows and winds its way through the valleys beyond Bourg-en-Bresse to Chambery, skirting the magnificent lake Lac du Bourget beforehand.

After Chambery it's time to have cameras at the ready, because epic, snow-covered peaks tower over the track on both sides.

We get off at a snowy Moutiers, where it's a 40-minute, 75-euro (ouch) taxi journey up to Courchevel 1850 (there are bus services on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, we arrive on a Thursday).

The end of the line is Bourg-Saint-Maurice, the stop for skiers heading for Les Arcs (the best way up is the funicular railway) and Val-d'Isère (you'll need an onward road transfer to reach it).

And on the way back? Yep, lunch in Paris again, of course. 

Last but not least is the ski room, which fits out its guests with top equipment. There's nothing even remotely worn-out in sight.

I hire a snowboard that the assistant gives me to unwrap before attaching the bindings.

And the doors here exit straight onto the Bellecote piste - about seven steps away - one of the resort's fairy-tale wooded runs to the main lift area.

The hotel offers an outdoor hot tub, pictured. The perfect place to relax after a hard day tearing up the neige-ary

The icing on the cake is the service – impeccable from start to finish.

I could, for example, get used to two people taking off a snowboard boot each after a day on the slopes.

And as we climb into our taxi to the train station for our TGV back to Paris we're handed a bag of treats for the journey by one of the bell hops.

Did I say the service is the icing on the cake? It's a hotel where icing on the cake awaits at every turn.

TRAVEL FACTS 

Double rooms at Hotel Barriere Les Neiges start from 1,290 euros per night (approx. £1,140). For the penthouse, you'll need to part with 17,510 euros (£15,450) a night. To book, visit www.hotelsbarriere.com/fr/courchevel/les-neiges or call +33 970 81 85 01.

Visit eurostar.com and Oui.sncf for information on high-speed train services from London to nearby Moutiers. It costs from £150 for a round trip from London to Moutiers.

 

 

 

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Main photo article When the five-star Hotel Barriere Les Neiges opened in Courchevel 1850 in December 2016, there were already 16 five-star hotels, and three others with the ultra-prestigious ‘palace’ rating, awarded by the French government for enhancing the reputation of France globally.
So the...

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