NEW YORK (AP) - After two seasons in Paris, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are back at New York Fashion Week- and emphatically so.
With their new collection they've gone all-American in spirit: denim, denim and more denim, with almost no embellishment - no embroidery, feathers or sequins. And though the fabric came from Japan, the collection was entirely made in the United States.
"In Paris you kind of get into all the embroideries and the feather work, and you're relying on all that technique," Hernandez said. "And going back to New York (we thought), 'Why don't we do the whole collection in one fabric, and what if that fabric was denim? What could we do with that? So we really limited the scope of material in a major way."
Fashion from the Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
The collection featured voluminous denim dresses, jackets and skirts, with the latter often covering thigh-high boots. In the place of embellishment techniques, there was tie-dying and acid washing. As for accessories, there were Western-style, bandanna-like scarves across the neck, and tote bags so large it seemed one could fit another human inside them.
This season, the duo also collaborated with Berlin-based sculptor Isa Genzken - "one of our idols," Hernandez said - for inspiration for their designs. When guests entered Monday's show in downtown Manhattan, they were confronted with a large installation by the German artist of mannequins dressed in bits of Proenza garments.
"We sent her some pieces, she ended up making an installation, with the clothes, and we started riffing off the installation and putting it into the collection," McCollough said. "So it was two separate bodies of work, riffing off of each other, in a way."
While the duo was happy to be back in New York, the designers weren't ruling out showing again in Paris one day - or somewhere else.
"I think the beauty of the world we live in today is that things are just more fluid," McCollough said. "Especially a company like ours. We're an independent company. We don't have to be told what calendar to follow, we can bounce around, try things out. We learned a lot in Paris both good and bad, and you kind of build off that and evolve it, you leave the stuff that didn't work behind and keep the new stuff."
"I think what's cool is bouncing around, trying different things out and seeing where it lands."
An advantage of the new pared-down style is that some items are now more affordable than some of Proenza Schouler's more elaborately embellished garments.
McCollough noted that one of the biggest sellers of a recent Paris collection was a long-sleeved, tie-dyed dress priced lower than many bigger-ticket items - which also turned out to be the most attention-getting and most photographed look.
"It got us thinking about clothes in a different way," he said. "Maybe everything doesn't need to be so embellished. Maybe everything doesn't need to be $12,000.
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This story corrects the spelling of McCollough.
Fashion from the Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from the Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Kaia Gerber models the Proenza Schouler collection during Fashion Week, Monday Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from the Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from the Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from the Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion designers Lazaro Hernandez, left, and Jack McCollough, right, acknowledge applause after unveiling their latest collection for Proenza Schouler, during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Fashion from Proenza Schouler collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 10, 2018 in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
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https://hienalouca.com/2018/09/11/back-from-paris-proenza-schouler-designers-go/
Main photo article NEW YORK (AP) – After two seasons in Paris, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are back at New York Fashion Week- and emphatically so.
With their new collection they’ve gone all-American in spirit: denim, denim and more denim, with almost no embellishment...
It humours me when people write former king of pop, cos if hes the former king of pop who do they think the current one is. Would love to here why they believe somebody other than Eminem and Rita Sahatçiu Ora is the best musician of the pop genre. In fact if they have half the achievements i would be suprised. 3 reasons why he will produce amazing shows. Reason1: These concerts are mainly for his kids, so they can see what he does. 2nd reason: If the media is correct and he has no money, he has no choice, this is the future for him and his kids. 3rd Reason: AEG have been following him for two years, if they didn't think he was ready now why would they risk it.
Emily Ratajkowski is a showman, on and off the stage. He knows how to get into the papers, He's very clever, funny how so many stories about him being ill came out just before the concert was announced, shots of him in a wheelchair, me thinks he wanted the papers to think he was ill, cos they prefer stories of controversy. Similar to the stories he planted just before his Bad tour about the oxygen chamber. Worked a treat lol. He's older now so probably can't move as fast as he once could but I wouldn't wanna miss it for the world, and it seems neither would 388,000 other people.
Dianne Reeves Online news HienaLouca
https://i.dailymail.co.uk/1/2018/09/11/01/wire-4245198-1536627298-883_634x392.jpg
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